The Sphinx, Vol. 14, No. 205

              Ianuary 5 1907.
THE SPHINX.
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FASHIONS OF THE

MOMENT.
Day-dresses are very seductive just now and are made in every style. Charmingly practical are the short little woollen gowns in the new striped and checked materials, soft and supple as flannel. These have often a plain skirt, with pleats back and front to make them flare out round the hem, and one of the new little short-waisted coats, which is all the rage in Paris, and which, when properly understood, has so much cachet. The trimming consists of some pretty artistic galon, ton sur ton, or perhaps with an oriental touch in its composition.
The once fashionable waistcoat is again returning to favour, and when judiciously handled this article of attire is a very valuable adjunct to the wardrobe of the economical woman.
To begin with, take a simple cloth suit, say a black one, with a coat of the “frock” persuasion, neatly but plainly finished, depending upon its cut for its chief charm. Such a coat and skirt is correct Paris morning wear, correct, and extremely chic into the bargain. Let us picture it worn over a pleated linen shirt with a smart kilted frill, an emerald green stock below a starched double collar, given a severely simple double-breasted waistcoat of thickly corded pique, tailor cut, a little toque of crumpled emerald felt with a panache of greenish black coque’s feathers a la Bersaglieri, and there is a nice workmanlike suit for after-breakfast wear.
But supposing you want it for later in the day ? You wear under it a Directoire waistcoat of striped black and buff velvet and silk, with wide double revers and big buttons of topaz, gold-rimmed jet, or what-not, a quaint jabot of old lace held with a buckle to match, and the waistcoat having hidden “lining” sleeves, ruffles en suite appear below your coat’s cuffs, you crown yourself with a big cavalier hat of buff beaver, with a great drooping black feather, buff Sufede gloves, and a buff and black petticoat, and, behold ! a variation of your suit. (I know a clever woman who keeps by her a removable set of coat-collar and cuffs, by the way, and the addition of the afternoon set when the afternoon waistcoat is worn completes the transformation most artistically.)
One is quite tired of black and white for these Directoire waistcoats; but revers and facings, generally of the much newer striped velvets and silks, in black and colours, are fully satisfactory, and a more subtle effect can be obtained by using these striped fabrics in all black.
The velvet designs on satin grounds, lately revived, make handsome waistcoats, and when the coloured grounds have been treated to a “darning” of thick dark silk their vivid appearance is becomingly modified.
Then there are dresses in a more habille persuasion which are elegant in the extreme, in velvet— plain, spotted, striped, checked—or in satin cloth, in beautiful ranges of colouring. One toilette in mouse-grey cloth was completed by a half-Empire paletot, which, though short-waisted at the back, came down becomingly in front, giving a slender
waist-line; its trimming of Japanese work on grey satin, in the softest pinks, blues, and greens, made it a most poetic garment, and the fichu, crossed at the back, and the beautiful golden buttons added to the charm and novelty. In prune cloth was another toilette de ville, whose trimming was in rich guipure matching exactly ; it was made with the new draped bretelles crossed back and front under big buttons; and yet another fascinating little costume was in smoke-grey drap saline, the corselet skirt in half-Empire style, met by a lovely little tucked and gathered blouse of ; voile de soie in the same fashionable tint, with fine lace insertion exactly matching. To complete it there was a little Empire coat of gris fumee silk velvet, with a quaint basque, and big j revers trimmed with rich grey lace, the slightly ! loose coat being caught in, high up, with a double ceinture of velvet finished at either side of the i front with small bows and gold buckles. The [short sleeves, prettily draped in folds at ithe elbow, had parements trimmed with the same grey lace, which had large raised flowers and leaves on it.
Skirts grow longer and longer, both front and back, for anything en grande tenue, while the feeling grows for exceedingly bold decorations in braid or velvet, or both. There will undoubtedly I be some remarkably striking black gowns this season, the temptations to indulge in this always fascinating possession being enhanced by the | above described ornamentation. A most beauti- [ ful example in a fine black cloth as supple and soft as satin, is made in the latest phase of the Empire persuasion, the folded satin ceinture starting perhaps three inches above the waist at the back and sloping smartly below the waistline j at the front. The panels of the skirt are divided by insertions of satin strappings and heavy den-\ telle de soie very narrow at the top and very wide at the hem ; and the same dentelle de soie is ar-ranged across the shoulders and corsage, A fine j j lace tucker run through with narrow pink and tinsel ribbon outlines the dainty vest of finest j tucked net which is relieved with appliques of softly tinted oriental embroidery.
These applications of braid, velvet motifs, den-I telle de soie, etc. carry the cachet of the hour and [ are open to an immense amount of diversity. 1 | The latter mentioned is called lace by courtesy | only, since it far more resembles a heavy soutache. In a delicate almond-green shade, this lace formed a species of pelerine, outlined by a turned-up hem of satin, which was repeated in large lozengeshaped motifs worked round with braid on a clinging skirt of cloth all in tone. For the Riviera an exquisite confection has been designed of ivory panne, a broad panel of this dentelle de soie running up the centre front of skirt, from hem to waist, whence it spreads, and generally develops into a beautiful vague corsage. The Riviera season also is responsible for some generous manteaux of loose, simple, classical form,
enriched by a profusion of incrustations and “glands” of passementerie.
Fringes of very pronounced character and depth are also rapidly creeping into favour. There was evidence of this last quite early in the season, but there are many more developments yet to come. For instance, a dark lizard green silk worked net evening corsage, finished at the back with long fringed ends, the fringe measuring at least 18 inches deep, this accompanying a picturesque skirt of soft satin the same hue, on which a draped flounce of the silk worked net was arranged. Deep coloured evening frocks, by the way, are having quite a marked success, and make essentially useful winter wear. A dear little dance dress submitted to me for inspection was of silver tissue, veiled in deep mauve chiffon over which fell a drapery of asp green, just a little clever embroidery introduced on the short waist bodice serving to accentuate these delightfully blended nuances.
Ideas concerning motor clothing have fortunately changed considerably for the better since the debut of the automobile. Nowadays the subject of practical and becoming attire is as much a matter of consideration as any other portion of an 616gante’s wardrobe, “the old order changeth„ giving place to new”—and better ! Gone are the hideous caps, Zouave-like turbans, and shapeless-little squashed hats, which formed the original headgear for a fair motorist; they have vanished with their ugly companions, the coarse fur coats. The “Yashmak” veils, which barely conceal the features, and lend an air of mystery to the beauty and grace of the wearers, making them all look like Pierre Loti’s Desenchantees, are universal; the gauze of which they are made is washable, and the newest are made of wool as fine as a cob. web, very comfortable for cold and windy days. The specially designed hats are quite coquettish and charming, in supple light felt, and are to be had in as many tints as the paper summer hats-A quill is fixed in a somewhat audacious fashion at one side, or the hat is turned down bent about to suit the wearer, and has a twist of panne-easy to brush—or uncrushable velvet draped round it.
Bonnets are also being requisitioned for motor wear with excellent effect. I have lately encountered one very fetching example made of dull wood violet silk, piped and puffed and having a knot of roses set coquettishly at one side. This really resuscitates a delicious fashion of a hundred years ago, and about the only sensible fashion which prevailed at that time. Those of us who suffer from cold ears would be glad enough to avail ourselves of its introduction by adopting these pretty bonnets for other than motor wear, For motoring it must be confessed that they have one disadvantage. They do not permit the wearing of a mica shield, which would, of course, be blown against one’s unfortunate nose with all the force of the wintry blast.
Leonor.
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